In the culinary world, umami is often misunderstood—even among chefs. It’s not simply a mix of salt, acid, sweet, and bitter, nor is it just a descriptor for something “savory.” Umami, which translates to “the essence of deliciousness,” is a sensation that leaves the palate feeling full and rounded. It enhances salivation, extends the longevity of flavors, and contributes to a more complete tasting experience.
At its core, umami comes from glutamate, an amino acid that is a fundamental building block of protein. It occurs naturally in many foods and even within the human body. Though often associated with Asian cuisine, umami is also prominent in Italian cooking, thanks to ingredients like tomatoes, Parmesan cheese, and mushrooms, which are all rich in glutamate.
At my restaurant, Matsu, we delve deep into Japanese culinary traditions to elevate umami in every dish. The foundation of Japanese cuisine lies in soft water and kombu (kelp), which together form the basis of dashi. Softer, more acidic water enhances the presence of glutamate, making umami more pronounced.
Since Japan’s naturally soft water contributes to the country’s heightened umami flavors, we installed specialized filtration systems at Matsu to replicate those conditions.
We also experiment with alternative liquid bases, such as juices, incorporating their acidity strategically at the final stages of seasoning. Many of our sauces, even those soy-based, have kombu steeped in them at the end to maximize umami. One of our key discoveries is that umami diminishes noticeably above 160 degrees, which affects the depth of flavor in our dishes. As we balance salt, acid, bitterness, and sweetness, we remain vigilant in preserving the umami integrity of our ingredients.
For example, the best dashi is one where kombu is steeped in cold, soft water overnight before being gently heated to 155 degrees Fahrenheit. At this stage, katsuobushi is added for no more than a minute before straining. If overnight steeping isn’t possible, a variation involves bringing the water to 155 degrees, adding the katsuobushi for one minute, straining, then steeping the kombu for an hour before a final strain. The cold steeping method allows natural agar in kombu to react more thoroughly, giving the broth a refined viscosity and texture.
For sauces requiring heat or reduction, we introduce kombu at the end to reinforce umami. This technique, combined with careful seasoning, allows flavors to linger longer and results in a more profound dining experience for our guests.
Temperature control is paramount in our kitchen. Our philosophy revolves around showcasing ingredients at their peak, respecting their inherent qualities, and using precise cooking methods to amplify their natural flavors. High temperatures can strip away delicate umami notes, while temperatures that are too low may suppress their expression. Thoughtful temperature regulation ensures that every dish reaches its full potential, creating depth and balance that defines our culinary identity.
Chef William Eick is the owner and executive chef of Matsu, a modern Japanese restaurant in Oceanside, California. With over 15 years of experience in both casual and fine dining, he has played a pivotal role in elevating Oceanside’s culinary scene. Before opening Matsu in 2021, he served as executive chef at Mission Ave Bar and Grill. His work has earned him numerous accolades, including Thrillist’s Best Chef in San Diego and multiple honors from San Diego Magazine. A self-taught chef, Eick’s approach to cooking is rooted in balance, quality, and the pursuit of deep, layered flavors—all with the ambitious goal of achieving two Michelin stars.
