On Hawaii’s Kona-Kohala coast, the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai has introduced two new culinary concepts in the past year: Ulu and Noio. These sister restaurants offer guests a dual perspective on seafood—Ulu highlights Hawaii’s local bounty, while Noio delivers a sleek take on the intimate Japanese Omakase experience.
Richard Polhemus, Four Seasons Resort Hualalai executive chef, aims to make a splash with ingredients that are both globally inspired and locally sourced. The luxury, he explains, lies in blending the work of local Hawaiian farmers with rare international delicacies.
“Our poke used to include tuna, but now we’re adding in Japanese bluefin, and it turns this dish into a more luxurious version and allows guests to experience the flavor in a new way,” Polhemus says. “The more we support [local farmers], the more sustainable their businesses become, and they can continue to expand and introduce new and exciting products for us.”
Examples of local fare include microgreens, heart of palm, sea grapes, and seaweed. Hualalai oysters, grown on site, are topped with housemade hot sauce and yuzu kosho vinegar. With these elements, Polhemus tells the story of Hawaii through each dish.
Noio builds on this sea-driven experience, blending Hawaiian and Japanese culture with a nightly menu of authentic Japanese dishes and freshly caught seafood. Highlights include Dobin Mushi, a tea of snapper fins with yuzu, and a biweekly selection of rare game from Waimea Butcher Shop. An exclusive Japanese Wagyu tasting is also in the works.
“Each concept has its voice and celebrates seafood in a fresh, vibrant environment, but we bleed the lines a little between the two,” Polhemus says. “Six years ago, we had maybe two or three sushi rolls on the Ulu menu. Now, we’re introducing Noio, and [sushi chef Nuri Piccio] is offering a very classic style of sushi innovatively. It’s creative but not over-manipulated, and we treat the ingredients with reverence.”
In Miami, SHINGO, an intimate Omakase den, fiercely preserves traditional Japanese cuisine with a carefully curated, 18-course menu of nigiri, sashimi, and yakimono dishes. Innovation is infused in every detail of the dining experience, including the 850-square-foot space that doubles as an art gallery showcasing Japanese artists just steps away from the sushi counter. Nestled in a historic building, SHINGO’s interior was crafted by expert Japanese woodworkers, enhancing its authenticity.
“Growing up in Japan, I wanted to create the most authentic atmosphere possible in South Florida,” founder and chef Shingo Akikuni says. “The menu finds a great balance between hot and cold dishes and seasonal flavors. I have very trusted sources of high-quality fish in Japan, and these relationships were built over a long time when I was doing my formal training in Tokyo.”
The 14-seat restaurant offers two seatings per night, serving a total of 28 guests. Akikuni interacts closely with diners, sharing the backstory of each dish. Much of the fish is flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market, sourced from 10th-generation farmers. Attention to detail is crucial; pickled ginger cleanses the palate between dishes, and the nigiri is delicately topped with soy sauce for guests to savor. This level of care embodies the Omakase ethos, which translates to “I leave the details up to you, chef.”
“In Japan, legacy extends generations, and there’s a great amount of importance for us to tell that story to our community so it doesn’t get lost,” Akikuni says. “We want to be ambassadors to Japanese culture. We believe the plate is almost like a kimono for the food. There is an inherent connection between the vessel, the plates, and the meal being served on top.”
In Atlanta, Umi balances classic Japanese flavors and techniques with global influences. Like Ulu and Noio, Umi blends tradition and innovation for a unique dining experience.
“Inspiration for our menu comes from all over. Sometimes, I’ll be walking down the street and think of new flavors to combine, or a new technique to try,” co-executive chef Todd Dae Kulper says. “We’ll twist the idea and see what happens … we do all sorts of experiments. Sometimes the innovation is planned out, and other times it happens completely by accident.”
Umi’s menu includes dishes like Sake Cheese, Tuna Crispy Rice, Tuna Truffle Chips, and Yellowtail Jalapeno, made with thinly sliced yellowtail, jalapeno peppers, cilantro, and ponzu sauce. Globally inspired sushi offerings include the Foie Gras Roll. Kulper’s hot dish specialties feature the Lobster Toban-Yaki, made with Maine lobster renowned for its high-quality texture and flavor.
“Without sourcing properly, you can’t put together the menu we have. This process takes a lot of time, and it has to be sustainable. I want the products I’m using today to be there 20 years from now,” Kulper says. “We truly honor the products we’re working with, and we believe Mother Nature has made it perfectly. It’s our job to not screw it up while dressing it and showing it off to our guests.”
For Kulper, the future of seafood hinges on a deep appreciation for classical techniques and flavors. Tradition, he says, serves as a foundation for innovation. Sustainability will pave the way for future generations of seafood innovators.
“We put things together in a way that excites our customers, but we keep the flavors understandable,” Kulper says. “That being said, I would like to see more seafood restaurants utilizing lesser-known types of fish, like lionfish, and dressing down their plates … this would help create more sustainability and inspire innovation.”
