In 1868, a group of women walked into one of New York’s most iconic restaurants—Delmonico’s—and did something truly absurd: They sat down and ordered lunch.
At a time when women weren’t allowed to dine in public without a male escort, the act made international headlines. But what seemed like a simple meal quietly helped shift women’s place in public life.
It started with journalist Jane Cunningham Croley—known by her pseudonym, Jennie June—working in the male-dominated world of newspapers and magazines as one of the nation’s first syndicated female columnists.
After she and a group of female journalists were barred from attending a banquet hosted by the all-male New York Press Club—the president reportedly told them they would have to sit behind a curtain and remain silent—Croly made a decision that would change how women gathered, networked, and organized.
“She approached the Delmonico brothers and said, ‘We’d like to have our own private women’s lunch club—would you be willing to host us?’” Carin Sarafian, director of private dining and special projects for Delmonico’s, says. “And the brothers, being as progressive as they were, agreed. That’s how the first women’s luncheon began.”
That moment led to the founding of Sorosis, the first professional women’s club in the U.S.—a “centre of unity” focused on collective elevation and advancement. The group met at Delmonico’s, advocating for women’s education and improved working conditions. Within a year, it had grown to 83 members.
“Women were able to network at Delmonico’s for the first time. They called it ‘social intercourse’ back then, but it was really about building connections,” Sarafian says. “It’s funny to think about now—women are such a visible force in our restaurant today—but at the time, it was unheard of.”
What began as a single lunch helped unlock the power of a vast, untapped sisterhood—long before the term “career woman” existed. Throughout her life, Croly continued to champion female journalists, support educated women seeking employment, and push for reforms society had yet to imagine.
A Restaurant of ‘Firsts’
Brothers Giovanni and Pietro Delmonico intended to open a pastry shop in 1827, but instead opened what is considered the first fine-dining restaurant in America in 1837. Older than the Statue of Liberty itself, the restaurant has hosted everything from presidential banquets to intimate dinners—and the first women’s club gathering.
By 1862, chef de cuisine Charles Ranhofer had introduced many culinary innovations seen on menus today, including eggs Benedict, caked Alaska, lobster Newburg, chicken à la Keene, and the famous Delmonico steak.
“We had the first private dining rooms, tablecloths, wine list, and menu,” Sarafian adds. “There are a lot of firsts associated with Delmonico’s that people take for granted, but we paved the way for restaurants throughout the country.”
For two centuries, Delmonico’s has woven itself into the fabric of New York—and the nation’s—culinary history. Following its post-COVID-19 reopening, the restaurant has placed an added emphasis on storytelling, giving back, and honoring its legacy.
Through April 20, the restaurant will promote a Ladies’ Luncheon menu in celebration of Croley and Delmonico’s historic role as the first restaurant to welcome women to dine and gather unaccompanied by men. The menu features three courses for $49 per person, with options such as potato-leek soup, yellowfin tuna tartare, roasted organic chicken, and prime flat-iron steak frites.
“The menu is representative of some items from the past but highlights what we’re serving now,” Sarafian says. “It’s been very popular among our clientele. This menu has drawn in a lot of new guests who didn’t know about this terrific milestone in history.”
Proceeds from this year’s menu will benefit the Joyful Heart Foundation, a leading organization founded by Mariska Hargitay with a mission to transform society’s response to sexual assault, domestic violence, and child abuse by prioritizing survivors’ healing.
A Look Towards the Future
Since its inception, Delmonico’s has had its finger on the pulse of shifting dining culture—sometimes driving those shifts itself—and Sarafian is ready to welcome the next generation of diners. After nearly 20 years with the restaurant, she still gets goosebumps knowing she holds a key to a piece of New York’s culinary history.
“There’s always something special about gathering around the table, whether it’s socially or professionally, and what I’m seeing over and over again is that people are beginning to step away from their computers and come to Delmonico’s,” Sarafian says. “We are seeing a shift in the way people dine out. People want to gather again. The Sorosis Club started in person at Delmonico’s, and now we love to honor them every year and say thank you for paving the way for all of us.”
By honoring Croley and her impact—who quite literally built her own table when her seat was denied—Delmonico’s stands as a symbol of progressive dining. It’s a reminder that progress doesn’t always arrive with fanfare; sometimes, it begins with a quiet act of defiance—and a seat at the table.
