Maxwell Reis, beverage director at Los Angeles-based Mírate, describes his drink menu as a study in contrasts. Take the Tu Compa cocktail as an example. The riff on a Paloma features grapefruit cordial, high-proof tequila, Mexican sake, and bitter pomegranate amaro liqueur. The star ingredient is pulque, a fermented beverage made from agave sap that dates back thousands of years to the Aztecs.
“I’m trying to use modern techniques with very archaic ingredients,” Reis says. “It’s a juxtaposition of super traditional execution, like house ferments, all the way to the most modern gastronomical execution.”
In the case of the Tu Compa, that means using a centrifuge to clarify the grapefruit juice and carbonating the final cocktail to a precise 45 PSI. It’s then canned in-house to preserve the carbonation and poured tableside in a tall glass with white salted pulque paint. The result is a light and refreshing sip that blends old and new—a fitting representation of Mírate’s broader mission to “preserve and up-lift Mexican culture through thoughtful innovation.”
The cocktail takes that idea a step further with a QR code on the can that links to an online game called “Agave Defender” where customers blast bottles of mass-produced tequila. It speaks to the fact that you won’t find any familiar big-brand names on Mírate’s shelf. Instead, Reis has built an agave-led beverage program centered on authentic spirits made using traditional production methods.
He frequently travels to Mexico to cultivate relationships with local mescaleros and tequila producers. Those experiences have taught him about the challenges facing the long-term viability of mezcal production. Many producers are finding it hard to balance soaring demand with traditional methods like small-batch production and rotational agave farming. Faced with climate change and increased global consumption, some have sacrificed sustainability, resulting in deforestation and the loss of rare agave species.
“We’ve learned about sustainability, we’ve seen how global consumption is affecting these local producers directly, and we’re trying to use our platform to change that,” Reis says. “We don’t carry anything that we consider to be manipulated for the mass market, because we understand that buying something can incentivize people to change their culture.”
Mírate’s goal isn’t to push producers to alter their mezcal for broader appeal—though that’s often what’s happened in other cases as the spirit soared in popularity over the past decade. Instead, the restaurant sees itself as a link between producers and customers, showcasing the spirits in creative cocktails that preserve their authentic flavors and highlight what makes them unique. The goal is to share those stories, amplify their voices, “and ideally, make a resounding market for them here in the [United] States.”
One of the biggest challenges is equipping team members with the knowledge they need to bring that to life in the restaurant. “It’s inherently difficult because you’re dealing with small-batch products,” Reis says. “They’re ephemeral.” To that end, he’s implemented a multi-pronged approach that keeps ongoing education front-and-center. That includes guidelines for how to talk about agave spirits with guests, daily pre-shift meetings, monthly workshops led by producers, and special masterclasses available to other industry professionals.
Reis says the beverage industry has largely opened its eyes to the pitfalls of mass-produced agave spirits. He believes the movement toward ethical, sustainable sourcing will only gain more traction as awareness expands.
Meanwhile, Oaxaca Club in Jacksonville Beach, Florida, is among the rising tide of Mexican eateries aiming to address the challenges of producing mezcal in the arid regions where agave grows. Focused on sustainability and the connection between food and culture, it aims to educate diners through Oaxacan cuisine, with offerings such as flavorful moles, quesillo, fresh herbs, and locally sourced seafood.
The dining experience is complemented by an agave-centric cocktail bar, featuring a wide selection of additive-free spirits as well as the restaurant’s own proprietary Oaxaca Club Mezcal. The product is crafted in southwestern Mexico by sixth-generation mescalero Valeriano Monterroza.
“He actually lives on the farm where he grows his own agave and harvests it after eight years when it’s perfectly ripe and mature,” says executive mixologist Blake Middleton. “For us, it really all comes back to having a product that we know where it comes from and we know how it’s made. We’re happy to showcase that and highlight how local producers are preserving tradition.”
On the educational front, the restaurant hosts events called “Mezcal Mondays” to help people better understand the range of options. Three varieties are selected for tasting and discussion with both employees and guests each week.
“Because we have such a large selection, it can be intimidating for someone that’s just sitting there looking up at the back of the bar,” Middleton says. “Mezcal Mondays gives us a place to start and really hone in on just a handful of products. Doing that every week, you see people start to get more comfortable and learn to love the spirits more and more.”
Occasionally, the focus is narrowed to a single offering, he adds. “The next day, you’re always selling a lot more of that because the servers are engaged with a product that they’ve tried and loved.”
Over time, Oaxaca Club has learned how to effectively showcase its beverage program’s values without overwhelming guests. One strategy Middleton finds effective is using the menu to highlight the types of producers the restaurant supports, along with noting which products are certified as additive-free by a third party.
“If you’re going to go against the grain and not carry a lot of the big names that people already know, you really need to do some in-menu marketing that explains who you are and what you’re going for,” he says. “You also have to understand that not everyone wants to go out on a Friday night and learn about tequila. Sometimes, they just want to drink what they already know, and that’s okay. On the other hand, when someone comes in and expresses curiosity and wants to learn more, your team has to be ready to nerd out, because the best way to create enthusiasm with the guest is to be enthusiastic about the product yourself.”
